Jeff Bachner for New York Daily News
The building that houses Capsouto Freres on Watts and Washington Sts.
Ask Jacques Capsouto how long he and his brothers have been in the 5,000-square-foot restaurant space in the most distinctive building in northwest Tribeca, and his answer will make you grab some French Burgundy and order escargot. You will be there a while.
"Eternity," says Capsouto, emphasizing the four syllables in an accent between French and New York. The oldest of three brothers who built Capsouto Freres with their bare hands, he means it in a profoundly fortunate way.
The Capsouto brothers came to this corner of Washington and Watts Sts. in 1979, buying the ground floor and basement of the co-op building for less than six figures.
What they built isn't just a restaurant. It's a magical corner of New York City that, like cult films and epic spaces, should never be touched. Like only some New York institutions, Capsouto Freres has earned the quality of timelessness.
Jeff Bachner/for New York Daily News
The cash register, bought on the Bowery on opening night in 1980.
Their 30-year commitment to food, community and each other has defined the identity of a close-knit neighborhood they helped create.
They are true New York characters shaped by their Tribeca surroundings. They own the slim building across the street. At one time, they all lived in separate full-floor lofts while their mother had the ground apartment. They hold opinions, but not a rude bone in their body. If something breaks, they fix it themselves. The only thing they don't make in the restaurant is the bread.
Jacques can discuss the differences in taste between a black, green, pink and white peppercorn, and knows that Madagascar makes the best. Samuel, the middle brother, reads about cognitive dissonance for fun. A movie has been made about their mother, Eva, who used to walk to Greenwich Village to buy newspapers that she gave free to locals who wouldn't make the far walk back then for local news. A triangle park at Varick, Laight and Canal Sts. is named for Albert, the youngest brother, who died of a brain tumor two years ago.
Jeff Bachner for New York Daily News
The vast but charming dining room at Capsouto Freres.
Any night of the week, you can catch James Gandolfini sitting in a corner. Bette Midler might come for the onion soup. Mayor Koch is still a regular. The chocolate souffl is legendary.
After Sept. 11, the brothers fed early responders for free. That's when Albert became involved in rebuilding the neighborhood. Working as an active member of the community board, he helped save downtown businesses and create the city's first restaurant week. Samuel, or Sami to his friends, met his wife while bartending at the restaurant. You can find him nightly - rain, shine, sleet, snow, heat or cold - smoking a cigar outside the kitchen doorway. He's intense, like an eagle, watching for anything that disrupts the quiet streets.
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